Legend has it that the Blessed Virgin appeared to the Bishop Saint Magno in Campo Santa Maria Formosa, and told him to build her a church. This new church was dedicated to the Purification of the Blessed Virgin Mary, and people called it Santa Maria Formosa, in honour of the apparition of the Virgin as a shapely (formosa) woman. The legend started in the 4th century and the first documentation dates back to 1060. The casselleri (manufacturer of cases used for shipments or for marriage coffers) had their oratory, dedicated to Saint Joseph, in the church of Santa Maria Formosa. After winning a victory on the day of the Purification of the Blessed Virgin Mary, they asked the Doge and the Signoria to visit the church every year. In this annual visit, the priest of the church gave the Doge two paper or golden straw hats, two flasks of Malvasia wine with two oranges on the top: these gifts were due to the humorous answer the Doge gave to their request: “But what shall we do if it rains? And if we were thirsty?”. And the casselleri answered “We shall give you a hat and a drink”.
Built in 1492, the church of Santa Maria Formosa is the masterpiece of the architect Mauro Codussi. For the first time, he brought in Venice the values of the Tuscan Renaissance architecture. The Latin cross plan with three naves respects the foundations of the 7th century church. It also fits in with the 11th century Greek cross plan with hemispherical dome. The result is a well-structured space, with a central suggestive temple, where the bright light and the close tracery of the bearing walls give a floating effect to the vaults and domes.
The two external façades were commissioned by the Cappello family. The classical one onto the rio was erected in 1542, the baroque one onto the campo in 1604. The main artworks include the Santa Barbara polyptych by Jacopo Palma the Elder (1480-1510) in the Chapel of the Scuola dei Bombardieri, which made him famous; you can admire the shadowy Last Supper by Leadro Bassano (end of 16th century), and in the Conception Chapel there is the famous Madonna della Misericordia triptych by Bartolomeo Vivarini from Murano (1473), which has a Mantegna style. In the oratory a Virgin and Child and Saint Dominic by Giambattista Tiepolo are conserved (18th century).
The Campo Santa Maria Formosa market is in one of the most popular open place in the city. It is not on regular dates, but it is a great occasion for people fond of fashion jewellery, artistic glass, books, pictures and much more besides. And everything is vintage. In the little stands you can find a bit of everything, nearly always used, but also a gift for a special occasion. And then it is so funny and relaxing to look at what the sellers propose in every new edition.
How to reach us
By car:
With a taxi motorboat you can arrive in front of the entry in “Fondamenta dei preti”.
At Tronchetto o in Piazzale Roma you can take Line 2 (to Rialto) and stop at Rialto o San Marco (San Zaccaria stop). Then you can walk to Campo Santa Maria Formosa.
By train:
With a taxi motorboat you can arrive in front of the entry in “Fondamenta dei Preti”.
In front of the train station you can take Line 2 (to Rialto) and stop at Rialto o San Marco (San Zaccaria stop). Then you can walk to Campo Santa Maria Formosa.
By plane:
With a taxi motorboat you can arrive in front of the entry in “Fondamenta dei Preti”.
From the airport you can take the Battello Giallo Alilaguna to Rialto (orange line) and than walk to Campo S. Maria Formosa.
